Protect Your Investment

Protecting Lawn and Garden Decor And Winter Care

"Lawn and garden decor", "flower garden decorations", "garden decorations", "yard decorations" or simply a "garden pretty" or two. Unless you're a person like I've never met yet, who views their outdoor world as simply a utilitarian area to be used for a specific purpose and nothing else, then you have some form of lawn and garden decor and yard decorations. Down home, we called these a "garden pretty" (pronounced "garden purty" [ pur-tee ] ), which is a term loosely applied to an object or thing that served little other purpose than to be joy to behold. In fact, a "purty" was anything that served no purpose other than to please the eye. Because money was rather hard to come by, "purty's" were not common and hard to come by. Therefore, purty's were rather highly cherished and zealously guarded. For someone to have a "garden pretty" was the mark of someone who was a little more "well-to-do" than most.

Most folks who have or have access to an outdoor area, have at least a few garden decorations if they garden at all or yard decorations if they are not so inclined. When I say garden decorations, most folks will envision flower garden decorations, and these are pretty common. But why ignore your vegetable garden with garden decorations? Is there any law that says you should not have a purty in the vegetable garden? In any case, the point is that virtually everyone has some form of lawn and garden decor and these are not limited to things that delight the eye. Lawn and garden furniture, accessories, plant pots and planters and even lighting all fall into the category of lawn and garden decor.

By the time you count everything that is non-utilitarian in nature in your outdoor world or that serves to make your outdoor world more enjoyable, there are few folks that could even start to put an accurate price on how much they have invested in their outdoor world. All of these things require protection and winter care if you are to protect your vast investment. From the most expensive garden sculptures and outdoor furniture to the most innocuous yard decorations, each of these requires some form of protection from winter damage in order to protect your investment. Take a look at some:

• Small Statues And Garden Decorations.
  These are generally any decorating item that can be easily picked up and moved. These should be removed from the garden immediately as soon as the outdoor season has ended to prevent winter damage. Thoroughly wash these with warm water and a mild detergent. Use a soft brush such as an old paint brush to gently remove built up soils. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry. Once dry, check these for loose, damaged or broken parts. Glue, tighten or replace any that need attention. Check for fading or peeling paint. If you wish to practice your artistic abilities, most yard decorations can easily be repainted. This is a good time to make color changes also if you like. Store these in plastic bags tied shut to keep clean.
  
  Many of these will benefit from the application of a protective coating. This can be a UV (Ultra-Violet) resistant clear acrylic (often labeled "UV stabilized") or a wax. Often, two or three applications of furniture polish will do a passable job, but I've found that a sprayable car wax works the best for protecting the finish of garden decorations before storage if using a wax. Car waxes are not as durable as acrylic and sometimes can be more difficult to get a good finish on, but they don't yellow like many of the acrylics do unless you can find and afford to pay for a "non-yellowing" acrylic. Experiment with different coatings on different surfaces to find which works best for a particular application. But do invest in some form of protective finish.
   

• Small Fountains And Small Water Features
  Fountains and water features are one of the most popular decorating items today. And for good reason. They provide so much visual and auditory interest to the garden or patio. But, the very thing that makes them a success is also the very thing that makes them so very vulnerable to the cold - water. For this reason, they need special attention and winter care to prevent winter damage.
  
  The first thing that needs to be done is to thoroughly drain them BEFORE they have a chance to freeze. Freezing will often destroy the pump and in some cases can split tubing, nozzles and heads. After draining, bring these indoors where they can be protected from the cold. If possible, remove the pump and tubing from the water feature and gently blow these out with compressed air.
  
  The next thing you MUST DO if you want your water feature to continue to operate properly is to clean it both inside and out. Here you will have primarily three things to consider, depending on your location and situation:

  • Calcium build-up,
    In most areas, the water has high levels of calcium, lime and other minerals that tend to build up in water lines, fountain heads and pumps. This will be seen as a white, gray, tan or reddish film. In extreme cases, this will be seen as a crust. If left unchecked, these will continue to build up until the function of the water feature is impeded or stopped all together. Clean these by soaking as many of the water system parts (pump, tubing, fountain heads, etc.) in a solution of calcium and lime remover such as "CLR^®" until the build-up is loosened or dissolved. In extreme cases, you may need to soak the parts in distilled vinegar overnight, rinse and then use the calcium and lime remover. After soaking off as much as you can, and wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, scrub off any remaining build-up with a stiff brush or by carefully hand scraping clean. Thoroughly rinse when complete.
    
    In some cases, it may be possible or desirable to assemble the fountain and fill it with the de-liming solution and run the water feature as normal until it comes clean. In this case, you may want to do the cleaning outdoors in case of splash or spill. Always dispose of de-liming agents in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations and rinse thoroughly.
     

  • Algae build up,
    Algae is an inevitable part of any water feature. The algae spores and/or plants themselves are carried in by the wind, birds and insects. During the season, if you used anti-algae treatments regularly, you may have avoided having a problem. However, if algae was present at the end of the season, you can easily eliminate it by draining the water feature and refilling it with an algaecide or distilled vinegar and running the pump for several minutes. Wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, scrub loose any remaining algae, drain and thoroughly rinse the water feature.
     

  • General soil and dirt,
    Dirt happens. It's in the air, carried in by various means and general water sediments. Most of these can be cleaned out by a strong blast from a hose. The remaining soils can be removed with mild soap and a stiff brush.
    
    After doing any of the above cleanings, make sure to thoroughly rinse all parts of the water feature and blow out high compressed air set at a lowered pressure. Generally, a pressure of 20 to 30 PSI is sufficient. Be careful using higher pressures, as this can damage pumps and fountain heads. After thoroughly cleaning, rinsing and blowing out the water feature, allow it to air dry. Then wrap the water feature in plastic to keep it clean during storage.
     

• Large Fountains And Water Features
  Large water features and fountains are not the same as a pond or other "tank-type" feature that may or may not contain plants and/or fish. These are generally a subject that is best served as a separate topic. However, there may be pumps with fountain heads, garden sculptures and other garden decorations that will need to be removed and winter care provided as described above. Provide winter protection as described above for pumps, filters, tubing and fountain heads. These should be thoroughly cleaned and stored indoors and dry for the winter. 
  
  Larger fountains and water features that can be drained should be. Follow the directions given above for small water features as to cleaning before winter. The larger the fountain and/or water feature, the more important the need for proper cleaning due to the higher pressures these water systems generally produce and the cost of replacement.
  
  After cleaning, remove the pump and as much of the water system as possible and inspect these for wear, deterioration and damage. This will allow you all winter to get any repairs and/or replacing done before spring. Many pumps and fountain heads on larger systems will be made of brass, bronze, stainless steel and other durable materials. But this does not mean they are wear proof. The grit and debris normally found in the water will deteriorate even these over time, but at a slower rate and careful inspection is usually the only way to detect this deterioration before failure occurs.
  
  If possible, remove the pump, fountain head and as much tubing as possible for storage and winter care. If the water system must remain intact during winter, try this little trick to avoid winter damage. Obtain enough "RV Antifreeze" (this is antifreeze designed for "potable" water systems) to fill the water system after it has been mixed to the correct ration for your area. Remove any fountain heads or other restrictions from the exit of the pump then pour this antifreeze down through the system and pump. Continue to pour antifreeze through the system until the pump is resting in a small pond of antifreeze. Then replace any fountain heads or other parts removed. This will coat all internal parts with an antifreeze to prevent any remaining water from freezing and causing winter damage. In the spring, this antifreeze is easily rinsed out prior to filling.
  
  After cleaning and either "prepping" or removing the water system for winter, wrap the entire fountain or water feature with plastic or a tarp to keep it clean and prevent debris from accumulating during winter. This is especially important if you added antifreeze to the system in order to keep animals out. Many fountains used by homeowners today are designed in such a way that the bowls may be removed. If this is so with your particular fountain or water feature, you may opt to remove the bowl and either store it indoors or turn it upside down on the pedestal. I prefer to store any removable part indoors, because "Murphy" seems to be very active in the winter. Which is simply another way of saying that if a thing can get broke in winter - IT WILL!
   

• Large Statues
  More and more folks are investing in large pieces of statuary for their outdoor spaces. These need to be divided into those statues that are at their best with an aged patina to them (such as bronze, copper, concrete and stone) and those which are painted or otherwise finished. The statuary that falls into the first category are best given minimal winter protection so that the aging process can continue through winter. About the only considerations and winter care needed for these are to insure that adequate drainage is maintained throughout the winter and to provide protection from falling limbs, etc. during winter.
  
  Painted or otherwise finished statues need attention and winter care to prevent winter damage to the finish. Start by thoroughly cleaning the statue with water and a mild detergent. After cleaning, inspect the finish for cracking, peeling and/or fading. If possible, either repaint as needed or have it done. After restoring the finish apply a coating of UV resistant, non-yellowing clear acrylic and let dry. If necessary, apply a second coat (especially to upper surfaces) and let dry. Once thoroughly dry, wrap the piece in a tarp or heavy plastic for the winter.
   

• Outdoor Furniture (wicker, wood, plastic, metal)
  Nearly everyone has some form of outdoor furniture these days, from inexpensive folding furniture to high-end wood or metal. All of these need attention and winter care to prevent winter damage and deterioration. For the average homeowner, the investment in a really nice patio set is one of the largest they will make. Therefore, it only makes sense to protect it from the ravages of winter. Of course, the best way to protect outdoor furniture is to store it indoors, but that is usually not practical. Here are some ways to help your outdoor furniture endure the winter better.

  • Wicker Furniture
    Real wicker furniture became popular at the end of the 19th century and has not lost its appeal. Today, real wicker fetches some of the highest prices of any patio furniture. To help it through a harsh winter outdoors start by cleaning it with a mild detergent and water, then allow it to dry thoroughly for several days. After it has dried, in the old days they would have given each piece a good coating of boiled linseed oil, and this works very well even today. Today, we have very good water sealers that penetrate better and dry quicker. Give each piece a good coating of high quality water sealer and let dry according to label directions. At that time, you can repaint the piece if it was previously painted, or allow it to continue curing throughout the winter. Cover each piece for the winter if possible.
     

  • Faux Wicker
    Faux, or artificial wicker, is a man-made look-alike for wicker that is significantly less expensive than wicker. The faux wicker webbing material is woven around a wood or metal frame. Because faux wicker is a synthetic material, it will not absorb moisture or sealants like wicker woven or wood. But, faux wicker is subject to drying out and cracking and UV deterioration from the sun. To compound the problem of protection, the "wicker" webbing is woven around usually a metal tubing frame or occasionally a wooden frame. Each of these elements requires a different approach to preserve it.
    
    The place to start with all of these is a thorough cleaning with mild soap and water, then let dry thoroughly. After which you will need which element or elements you wish most to preserve.

    • Natural faux wicker is best preserved by either a silicone based product like those designed for the dash board and vinyl seats of your car or by a thorough coat of paint.

    • Wooden frames are best preserved with a good quality water sealant designed for wood or by a good quality of enamel paint.

    • Metal frames can only be preserved by generous applications of a good quality enamel paint.
      A tip here:
      When painting a metal frame, turn the piece upside down and remove the plastic feet. Then clean the insides of the tubing and apply a generous application of paint to the inside of the ends of the tubing. This is due to the fact that the plastic feet are not usually sealed against moisture which gets inside and rusts the tubing from the inside out over time. After the paint is thoroughly dry, replace the plastic feet.
      
      The one common denominator between all of the various materials is a good quality paint. But you will need to decide which element or elements you wish to preserve and the color scheme you wish to maintain. After choosing and applying the best type of preservation for your application, cover the furniture tightly for winter storage.
       

  • Wooden Furniture
    Wooden outdoor furniture offered today runs the gamut in types and grades of quality of wood. It may be a treated or non-treated soft pine or occasionally oak, cedar, redwood, cypress or teak. And within each type, there are various grades that translates into varying degrees of weather resistance. To expound on each of these and the very best ways to protect it would require volumes. For the sake of brevity, let's take a look at the requirements that are common to all of them. Woods biggest enemies are its porosity to moisture and drying out. As wood dries out, it becomes more porous to moisture and fasteners loosen up.
    
    As with everything else residing outdoors, the place to start is with a good cleaning with a wood cleaner designed for decks and fences. This task is best handled with a high pressure washer which can be rented from a local rental store. Follow the cleaning solution manufacturers recommendations on use. Then allow the pieces to dry thoroughly.
    
    After the pieces are thoroughly dry, re-tighten all fasteners that have become loose. While you're in the process of tightening everything up, this is a great time to consider installing permanent plastic feet under each of the legs. These are often sold as permanent "glides" and come in a variety of different ways to attach them. The simplest has a nail incorporated permanently into the plastic foot and are simply driven into the leg like a nail. Two or three plastic feet under each table and chair leg will space the leg off of the ground and allow air to circulate under the legs.
    
    After repairing and tightening, thoroughly coat each piece with a good quality of wood preservative/moisture sealer or wood primer and paint. Many homeowners opt to paint their outdoor furniture in a color scheme that complements their home. After the pieces are completely dry, cover the pieces securely with a tarp or custom covers designed specifically for the pieces.
     

  • Plastic Furniture
    Plastics have become extremely popular for outdoor furniture, and for good reason. Plastic furniture is relatively inexpensive, fairly durable, easy to care for with minimal effort. fairly lightweight and come in a wide array of styles. It might be argued that plastic furniture is an ideal choice for many peoples busy lifestyles. But plastic furniture, while low-maintenance, does not mean that it requires no care, especially in winter.
    
    The ideal means to protect plastic in winter is to store it indoors, away from the extremes of temperature and the intense UV rays of winter. But, as with other outdoor furniture, this may not be possible or practical. In this case, we need to provide some TLC and winter care to prevent winter damage.
    
    The place to always start is with a thorough cleaning with a mild soap and water, then a rinse. Take this time to inspect each piece for cracks or broken parts. As a general rule, the plastics used in today's outdoor furniture do not glue well with any glue readily available to the average homeowner. Therefore, it is probably best and safest to replace any broken plastic furniture. This is also a good time to consider repainting any piece that has faded or the surface is powdered. While no paint is permanent on plastics, the paints designed specifically for plastics work the best.
    
    If you do not need to repaint, give each piece a thorough coating of a silicone-based preservative like those used for dashboards and vinyl seats. This will help keep the plastic from drying out and deteriorating. If you look around, you may be able to find one with UV protectants that are available, but somewhat difficult to find in many areas. After treating the pieces, cover them tightly with plastic or a tarp to protect the furniture from the sun and winter damage.
     

  • Metal Furniture
    Outdoor furniture is now available in many forms of metal, from cast iron and steel to aluminum, brass and even copper. Brass and copper furniture is often desired to be allowed to weather and form a "patina" which is nothing more than surface oxidation of the base metal. While attractive to look at, this surface oxidation makes the piece nearly unusable because the "patina" will stain clothing. For this reason, manufacturers usually apply a paint treatment that simulates and has the look of patina, yet allows the piece to be used as normal. This type of furniture, as well as aluminum is best cared for by a gentle cleaning only and securely wrapping each piece to provide protection.
    
    Some have recommended coating each piece with an acrylic paint finish to prevent oxidation through flaws in the original finish. I recommend that if you are considering such an application, that you try it first in an inconspicuous location first to ascertain that the acrylic will not adversely effect the original finish.
    
    For iron and steel furniture, nothing short of an application of a high quality primer and paint will give adequate protection to the furniture. Most of the steel and iron outdoor furniture pieces offered today have a factory applied paint finish applied to them. However, normal wear, dings and scrapes inflicted during normal use will damage this finish and allow rust to start.
    
    After thoroughly cleaning each piece, inspect each piece for damage to the finish and rust starting to form. Where this occurs, it is imperative that you remove as much of the rust as possible then apply a good quality primer and paint to the area. After each piece is thoroughly dry, wrap it securely to protect it from the winter elements.
     

• Outdoor Accessories (umbrellas, cushions, covers)
  Nearly all of your outdoor accessories such as umbrellas, cushions, etc. will be brought indoors and stored for the winter. Many of these pieces have a factory applied finish that makes them weather and dirt resistant. However, they have been outdoors all summer collecting dirt into the fibers and the coating has been steadily wearing off. When you get ready to bring these indoors for the winter, remove the covers from any cushions you can and if possible, remove the fabric covering from umbrellas, swing awnings, etc. and wash these in a washing machine to get them thoroughly clean. Those that cannot be removed will need to be cleaned in place and rinsed thoroughly. Many covers will come with washing instructions. If your do, follow these as recommended, especially when it comes to drying.
  
  After each of these has been cleaned, apply a liberal coating of fabric protector and water repellant. Many fabrics departments will carry these, but if not, look in the camping section of a sporting goods store. Many automotive departments will also carry some good products for this purpose. Always test the product in an inconspicuous location first for discoloration or an oily reside that could foul clothing and always use according to the manufacturers instructions. Always store these in sealed plastic bags for winter to prevent molds and mildews from forming.
   

• Electric Outdoor Lighting
  Electric outdoor lighting needs attention and winter care as well if it is to continue to function properly. The two biggest reasons for failure of outdoor electric lighting are:

  • Loose connections that cause short circuits.

  • Corrosion caused by dirt and moisture.
    
    WARNING - Always disconnect the power from all outdoor lighting before attempting any service or repair work. Failure to disconnect the power could lead to serious or fatal electrocution and/or damage the lighting fixture.
    
    While the tasks are simple, if you do not feel qualified to do so, always contact a qualified electrician.
    
    Start by removing the light bulb or bulbs and remove the socket from the fixture. Inspect the wire connections for burning and/or discoloration. Also check for the presence of moisture. If none is present, retighten the connection screws to make sure the wire connections are tight. If the connection is by way of short wire "pigtails" make sure the wire nuts or other connectors are tight. It is also a good idea to wrap these with electrical tape to make sure they stay tight.
    
    After checking and retightening the wire connections, clean the inside of the lamp socket with a fine wire brush (these are available at any good hardware store or home center) to remove any oxidation and discoloration. Do the same to the light bulbs. After thoroughly cleaning the lamp and socket, apply a coating of "electrical protective lubricant" (available at electrical supply houses and many hardware stores and home centers).
    
    Caution - Electrical protective lubricant is specifically designed to provide a protective coating and moisture barrier to electrical devices without conducting electricity and a low risk of fire. NEVER USE CONVENTIONAL LUBRICATING OIL IN AN ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT!
    
    After cleaning and retightening the connections, clean any glass surfaces a repaint any surfaces hat need it, them re-assemble the fixture and restore the power. Always test the fixture for proper operation after do any work.
     

• Oil Outdoor Lighting
  Oil lamps are very popular in the outdoor setting and no one can deny that oil lamps provide a warmth, charm and ambiance that few other elements can provide. However:

  • Oil lighting should never be stored outside because of the relatively fragile nature of the lamps.

  • The oil should never be store in the lamp because:

    • The oil is highly flammable.

    • Most petroleum based oils and kerosene's will absorb moisture which can rust tanks and foul wicks.

    • The danger of spillage or leakage is increased.
      
      Always remove the oil from the lamp and store in a sealed, airtight plastic container out of reach of children and away from heat sources. If possible, store outdoors.

Caution - All lamp oils are highly flammable. Always handle with care, use only plastic containers, funnels and other utensils to limit the risk of accidental ignition. Never store near heat or open flame and avoid sparks when handling any lamp fuel. NEVER use anything other than approved fuels in any oil lamp. Keep out of reach of children. Always keep lamp fuel containers properly labeled and preferably in it original container with original label intact. NEVER SIPHON FUEL BY MOUTH! Always wear rubber gloves when handling any fuel or fuel parts. Only dispense and/or pour fuels or open fuel containers in a well ventilated area.

 

After removing the fuel from the lamp, thoroughly inspect the lamp for signs of leakage, Properly destroy any lamp that shows signs of leakage. Never attempt to repair the leak yourself. Also inspect for loose and/or damaged parts and tighten as needed. Remove flame globes, chimneys, etcetera from the lamp and thoroughly clean all of the pieces. Raise and remove any wicks and inspect for proper length. Replace any that have burned short and trim wicks square and straight across, removing any charring for proper burning.

 

After cleaning and tightening all parts and properly trimming the wick, reassemble the lamp, wrap loosely in plastic and store outside in a location away from children and pets.

You've made a big investment in your outdoor world. Shouldn't you protect it from winter damage? By following these few simple steps, you will be able to enjoy your lawn and garden decor for many, many years. Come spring, you can rest assured that your "garden pretty" will be ready to once again delight the eye and brighten your patio, lawn or garden. Additionally, when the busy of spring arrives, you will be glad that you took the time to do a little TLC in the fall rather than wait for spring.

the "Hillbilly Gardener"