General
Amaryllis have been around since their discovery around 1828 by Dr. Uduard Frederich Poepping on a Chilean mountain during a plant hunting expedition. While they have shown popularity as a garden plant and easily forced garden lily, it hasn't been until recent years that they have started to become extremely popular during the holiday season. Probably due to their ease of growing and adaptability to forcing in the winter and ability to survive to bloom another year.
It has been said "Amaryllis are so easy to grow that anyone who can not grow them should take up bowling". I don't know if I'm willing to go that far, but I will say that they are among the easiest of plants to grow, especially of the forcing bulbs. By their nature Amaryllis have a tendency to want to grow and flower even without being planted.
Light
During the majority of their growing season Amaryllis require a sunny window during the winter months, except while they are blooming. During their blooming period, keep them in bright light, but no direct sun in order to prolong the blooms. During the warmer time of the year after the last frost, move them outside to a location where they receive midday shade.
Temperature
During the blooming period, keeping your Amaryllis in a location free of drafts and 65 to 70 degrees F will greatly prolong the flower. Temperatures above 75 degrees F will cause the flowers to fade quickly, while moving the plant to a cool room at 55 - 60 degrees F at night will greatly increase the length of bloom. After the plant is through flowering, keep it at normal room temperatures of 70 - 75 degrees F until the weather warms in the spring and move it outdoors. In extremely hot locations, shade will be required during midday and afternoon heat. During the dormant resting period, the bulb will need to be kept cool in a 50 - 55 degree F location that is away from bright light.
Water
Amaryllis plants need to stay moist but over watering will cause the bulb to rot. Water your Amaryllis whenever the surface of the soil starts to dry. Over watering is the number one cause of failure with Amaryllis.
When you move the plants outdoors, mulch the pots well and water frequently if you leave them potted. If you unpot the bulbs and plant them directly in the garden you can mulch them heavily and water with the rest of your garden, giving them at least an inch of water per week.
Fertilizer and Feeding
Amaryllis do not require feeding during the blooming period and in some cases extra fertilizer can cause inferior or reduced bloom. The bulb contains all of the nutrients it needs to bloom well. After the plant quits blooming, start feeding the bulb with a good quality bulb food
according to the product instructions. A balanced, general purpose organic slow release fertilizer will also work in a pinch sprinkled on the soil and lightly worked into the surface. Once outside, feed the bulbs lightly every month until the dormant season.
Soil
Amaryllis are not fussy about soil, but they do require good drainage. Any high quality potting soil will work well. Avoid potting soils with additional fertilizers, moisture crystals, etc. These are not needed and in some cases, may harm your bulbs. Also avoid those bargain potting soils that many "box stores" sell. Stick with a high quality potting soil that stays loose and does not compact.
Potting
Amaryllis perform best if kept somewhat pot bound. When choosing a pot, an Azalea or bulb pot works best and you should choose a pot that is roughly no more than 2 inches larger than the bulb diameter with drainage holes in the bottom. Place drainage material in the bottom of the pot and then potting soil so that when the bulb is planted approximately 1/2 of the bulb is above the soil. Your finished pot should have not more than 1 - 1 1/2 inch of room all around the bulb, 1/2 of the bulb exposed and 1/2 - 1 inch of room for watering. After potting, water thoroughly and place in a warm sunny location until the plant starts to bloom and then move to a location with bright light, but no direct sun.
BloomingThe normal blooming period for Amaryllis is in May and June in the wild or where they are able to be planted outdoors the year round. The majority of the Amaryllis you find in stores right now and all of the ones ordered from on-line sources are ready to start growing once potted and will provide you with blooms in 4 - 8 weeks after they start growing. After the plants have finished blooming, cut the faded flowers and flower stalk from the plant (be careful not to damage the bulb) but leave the leaves intact and place in a sunny spot to continue to grow and build strength for next years bloom. When the bulb is brought out of dormancy next fall and repotted, place the pot in a bright cool (60 - 65 degree F) location until new growth begins and then move the pot to a warm sunny window until the plant begins to bloom and then move the plant to a spot with bright light and if possible keep at 65 to 70 degrees F to prolong the bloom. Moving the pot to a cool room (55 to 60 degrees F) will prolong the blooms.
Dormancy
Like any bulb, Amaryllis needs a period of rest to prepare to bloom again next year. Your bulb should be growing outside during the warmer months and the foliage will normally die back on its own by July or early August, at which time the bulb is ready to be brought in to take a long nap. Even if the foliage is not completely dead, by the end of July or early August bring the bulb in to give it a rest anyway. Withhold water from the bulb, letting it dry completely and place it in a cool, dark location (50 - 55 degrees F) for 8 - 10 weeks. Leave any foliage still attached to remain on the plant until it is dry, when it can be gently pulled from the bulb. should any foliage remain at the end of dormancy that is not completely dry, gently cut this from the bulb being careful not to damage the bulb.
At the end of the 8 - 10 week period or when you start to see new growth, gently repot the bulb in fresh potting mix, resume watering and move to a cool area and bright light until new growth begins. Then move the plant to a sunny window and warmer temperatures until it starts to bloom.
Propagation
In its normal state, Amaryllis will produce small bulblets around the main bulb like any other bulb if given proper care. These can be removed and potted up separately for new plants. However, bear in mind that the care of these new bulbs will be the same as the larger parent bulb and it will take from 2 - 3 years to produce a bulb of flowering size but it is cheaper than buying new bulbs and they do make great gifts for just a little time on your part.
If you feel daring and would like to try creating your own unique Amaryllis and have the patience to wait 3 - 5 years to see the results, drop me a line and I'll be glad to send you the details. It's really easy to do, but like I say it takes years to see the results of your creation. Kind of like kids. You never quite know how they will turn out until they're grown.
